Bead Stringers: Take Note of Fashion Trends

JCK, (Jewelers Circular Keystone) an industry publication that has been around for more than a century, posted a terrificRalph Lawren Ad via JCK article today reminding us that many of our clients see jewelry as accessories. For those clients, it’s important to be aware of fashion trends.

JCK noticed that this is “a deep blue season” and it pulled articles and images from InStyle magazine, Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar and Lucky to illustrate that “blue is very much on fashion’s radar screen.”

For jewelry designers, this means taking a look at some old favorites, lapis lazuli and blue sapphires, for example, and taking a look at some not so familiar gemstones.

Chalcedony, a variety of quartz, has become very popular in recent years. It is available in a variety of colors, including blue, and although frequently cut as a cabochon, it is also available in beads. Avoid the lower quality chalcedony in which you will see grey.

Iolite, sometimes called “water sapphire,” a misnomer, is an often overlooked gemstone. It is available in beads in a variety of shapes, including faceted teardrops. Iolite has what is called pleochroism which means that it shows different colors in different directions in the crystal. Badly cut iolite will not show its deep purplish blue well, perhaps a reason why it is often overlooked by designers.

Aquamarine, a beryl, belongs to the same family as emeralds. It is available in a range of usually light blue colors and is surprisingly affordable.

As jewelry designers we often think of jewelry as an end in itself. However, as JCK rightly suggests many women consider it an accessory. While I don’t by any means suggest following fashion trends slavishly, it’s wise to be aware of them and this may be a good time to incorporate some of the lesser known, but gorgeous, materials into your designs.

 

 

 

Posted in Fashion

Seasonal Risks to Gemstones

Antoinette Matlins, the author of Jewelry & Gems, the Buying Guide, has written a very helpful article describing the risks to jewelry posed by summer activities. Below are her tips along with some comments of my own.

These may be helpful to you for your own collection or as advice to pass on to clients.

  • Don’t wear good jewelry in chlorinated swimming pools. Chlorination can damage the surface of gemstones including pearls. It can also remove the polish from stone such as turquoise and malachite. Chlorination can also attack the alloys in metal.
  • Don’t wear rings in cold water. Cold water can cause the fingers to shrink temporarily. When this happens, rings can be lost.
  • Mountings are at risk during active sports. If mountings are loose, they are at risk during active sports such as tennis. Check mountings by putting the piece up to your ear and shaking it. If you hear any noise, the mounting is loose. Prongs may need to be tightened, strengthened or replaced.
  • Don’t wear fine jewelry while gardening.Gold and platinum can be scratched. Diamonds can be chipped. Even if you’re wearing gloves, the best advice is to remove your rings.

 

 

 

 

Posted in Gemstones | Tagged ,

What’s In A (Gemstone) Name?

One of the most troubling and perplexing characteristics of the gem trade for beginners is the widespread use of trade names and misnomers for gemstones.

Most of the time, the names are not intended to deceive. Over time, the usage of a certain name becomes soSerpentinecommonplace in the trade that buyers are expected to know, for example, that “Korean” Jade is really serpentine, not jadeite or nephrite, the two varieties of jade. Similarly, all black onyx is dyed and has been dyed since Roman times.

Nevertheless, this can be confusing for the beginner and it must be said that some dealers–not many, but a few–do misrepresent materials.

The best advice is to be wary of gemstone names which have some kind of descriptor at the beginning. For example, there is no such thing as blue topaz in nature. The blue topaz you see is grey or otherwise unattractively colored topaz that is heat treated or irradiated. In the trade, you will hear descriptors such as “London” blue topaz or “Swiss” blue topaz. These do not denote place of origin but rather are names given to the treated topaz.

Please remember that many, if not most gemstones, are treated in some way and there is nothing “wrong” with a treated gemstone. Some treatments, in fact, are crucial for protecting the stone. The trouble usually occurs when a buyer is not educated about specific treatments and is then shocked and surprised when the material turns out to be something it is not.

If you are buying at shows, dealers are extremely reluctant to accept returns so if you’re just starting out and are concerned about a certain material, ask the dealer. If he or she is impatient or brushes off the question, buy somewhere else.

 

 

 

 

Posted in Gemstones