Fundamental Shift in Freshwater Pearl Market?

Although it’s extremely difficult to predict market fluctuations, it does appear that fundamental shifts are underway in the freshwater pearl market. As most professional pearl and bead stringers use freshwater pearls in their work, I thought this information may be useful going forward

Freshwater Pearls Production Declines

China Freshwater Pearl Producing Provinces

China Freshwater Pearl Producing Provinces

Industry reports suggest freshwater pearl production has declined about 30 percent in 2011 and will continue this level of decline through 2012. The major reason for the production decline appears to be Chinese government policy which is limiting areas open for pearl cultivation. According to Johnny Chan Yuk Kwong, president of the Hong Kong Pearl Association, fresh water pearls today are mainly cultivated in the provinces of Hunan, Hubei, Anhui, and Jiangxi which are rich in freshwater resources. Other reports suggest that this is especially true in the provinces of Hubei and Anhui. There are some indications that freshwater dealers are shifting into South Seas pearls as the available supply of freshwater pearls decrease.

Rising Costs of Freshwater Pearl Production

The freshwater pearl industry was hit hard by the economic crisis and despite industry forecasts of higher prices, prices are still at 80% of their pre-crisis levels. However, industry observers suggest that prices will rise as a result of decreased supply and increased production costs including increased labor costs.

Freshwater Pearl Shapes

One of the more charming and intriguing characteristics of freshwater pearls was the absence of a nucleus or bead. This meant that freshwaters were typically all nacreous. For many connoisseurs, the irregular shapes and intense iridescence of these baroques, particularly keshis, made them highly desirable acquisitions.

However, one of the more innovative technical developments in Chinese freshwater production is the development of round freshwater nucleated pearls. Like their saltwater counterparts, these pearls are cultivated by the insertion of a nucleus into the body of a mollusk to produce a round pearl.

According to the SPC Pearl Information Bulletin, this technology has matured to the point that at least 50% of total freshwater pearls are nucleated and will be available within the next two years.  Analysts point to strong consumer demand for round pearls as the justification for the market shift.

Looking forward, intensely baroque shapes such as keshis will no doubt continue to be available, although perhaps less available and more costly than previously.  However, shapes such as potatoes and off rounds, those shapes which attempted to mimic rounds for the lower end market may decline in availability.

One of the greatest benefits of the new technology is that it enables farmers to cultivate bigger pearls. According to Chan, nucleated pearls can reach 16mm and larger.

When freshwaters first became commercially available in the United States, many of them had incomplete nacre coverage as a result of farmers harvesting the pearls before nacre coverage was complete. It is to be hoped that these new pearls don’t experience the same mistreatment.

Conflicting Reports on Freshwater Pearl Demand

While out at the big gem show in Tucson last week, I was made aware of some analysts who believe that the market for freshwaters – as we have become familiar with them over the last couple of decades – is oversaturated with declining consumer interest.  Certainly this appeared to be borne out by the lack of crowds at the booths of large freshwater pearl vendors.

However others, including Chan, predict that buyers, especially European and American buyers, will continue to support the current market with stable and even increased demand. Despite this upbeat forecast, in a volatile economic climate, it’s extremely difficult to predict demand.

Looking Ahead

  • Although prices are still at 80% of their pre-economic crisis (2008) levels, freshwater pearl prices will increase as a reflection of decreased production in China.
  • Beautiful baroque freshwater pearls will be far less available as farmers move to meet consumer/commercial demand for rounds.
  • Rounds will dominate the freshwater market and while we may see some low quality pearls, the strongest trend in the freshwater pearl market for years has been toward quality as Chinese farmers have grown more sophisticated.
  • Be alert for decreased interest in currently available freshwaters from your more discerning clients. It’s not clear whether this is a trend yet, but I’d suggest you monitor interest levels.

 

 

Posted in Business, Pearls | Tagged , , , , ,

Naming the Hue for You

Tangerine Tango

Tangerine Tango

This year, the jewelry trade is told that “Tangerine Tango” is 2012’s color of the year. This means that orange gemstones, fire opal, spessartite garnet, and citrine, are on the “must have” list. In addition, we are told that colors complementing orange gemstones–blue sapphire, emerald, zircon, diamonds and agates– will play a major role in 2012 jewelry trends.

JCK, among other trade publications, has printed this information. And, recently while in Tucson for the big gem fair, I noticed a number of dealers offering significant amounts of goods in orange hues.

Who sets these trends? Where does the industry get the type of advice that would lead dealers to make these investments? And why should 2012 be the year of “Tangerine Tango?”

In this case, the culprit is Pantone, a global authority on color and provider of professional color standards for the design industries. Pantone is what some call a “thought leader” and for more than a decade, Pantone’s Color of the Year has influenced product development and purchasing decisions in multiple industries, including jewelry and fashion, home and industrial design, as well as product packaging and graphic design.

In December, 2011, the Pantone Color Institute announced Tangerine Tango as its pick for 2012’s color of the year. It explained its choice. “Sophisticated but at the same time dramatic and seductive, Tangerine Tango is an orange with a lot of depth to it. Reminiscent of the radiant shadings of a sunset, Tangerine Tango marries the vivaciousness and adrenaline rush of red with the friendliness and warmth of yellow, to form a high-visibility, magnetic hue that emanates heat and energy.”

Pantone continues: “Tangerine Tango, a spirited reddish orange, continues to provide the energy boost we need to recharge and move forward.”

But how does the Pantone Research Institute make its selections? Why orange and not, say, yellow or blue?
Pantone explains:

“The color of the year selection is a very thoughtful process. To arrive at the selection, Pantone quite literally combs the world looking for color influences. This can include the entertainment industry and films that are in production, traveling art collections, hot new artists, popular travel destinations and other socio-economic conditions. Influences may also stem from technology, availability of new textures and effects that impact color, and even upcoming sports events that capture worldwide attention.”

Pantone has named “Colors of the Year” since 2000. Previous picks have included Honeysuckle (2011), Turquoise (2010), Sand Dollar (2006) and Tigerlily (2004).

Amethyst is February’s Birthstone

Amethyst

Amethyst

While on the subject of color and gemstones, we should note that amethyst is the birthstone for February. It comes from the Greek word amethystos, translated as “not drunken.” Amethyst is believed to protect against intoxication and promote a serious and sober mind. Today, amethyst is considered helpful for people struggling against addictive behaviors.

Amethyst, an affordable gem quartz, is also said to quicken intelligence, guard against anger, encourage calm and bravery and help in bringing forth the highest aspirations in mankind.

Posted in Fashion, Gemstones, Jewelry Design | Tagged , , , ,

Advanced Pearl & Bead Stringing DVD Released

Advanced Pearl and Bead Stringing

Advanced Pearl and Bead Stringing

This week-end my little company released the “Advanced Pearl and Bead Stringing” DVD.

This DVD was a long time in the making. I had developed the earlier “Professional Pearl and Bead Stringing” 2-voloume course long before we used it as the basis of a set of DVDs. I taught it dozens of times over the years and was satisfied — based on the reactions of my students — that the material was presented in a logical and easy to understand sequence for beginners. What remained was to gear myself up for appearing on video (easier said than done) and determining and organizing the key material to fill in the blanks for beginners. (For example, the chapter on the strengths and weaknesses of various threads.)

The Advanced DVD was an entirely different matter. Although I’ve used the techniques included in the DVD for years, I hadn’t taught them. So, I had to determine which techniques would have broad enough value for the pearl and bead stringer with basic skills and then determine how to present them. This involved multiple takes on the part of my long-suffering videographer and my own simmering impatience–with myself.

Advanced Pearl and Bead Stringing

Advanced Pearl and Bead Stringing

But this is sausage making and not important to you. I believe the “Advanced Pearl and Bead Stringing” DVD covers key areas of importance to professional pearl and bead stringers. Here is a chapter by chapter discussion.

  • Double Knotting — While assembling the DVD, I noticed I sometimes handled the beads differently than I demonstrated in the beginner volumes. That’s because I was double knotting. I included a very short chapter on how to double knot — not really an advanced technique, maybe more an intermediate one — but I wanted to ensure viewers understood everything I was doing.
  • Endless Necklaces — Professional Pearl and Bead Stringers must know how to create endless necklaces. Once the concept is understood, then like everything else, it’s a matter of practice.
  • Adding Thread — This was a technique I developed for myself and I’ve never seen it taught before. I use it for two purposes. First, to correct mistakes if I’ve incorrectly estimated the amount of thread I need for a piece of jewelry and it’s been invaluable for this. Second, and just as important, I use it to help solve manufacturing issues if I’m using beads with differently sized drill-holes.
  • Combining techniques — I developed a short segment showing viewers how these two techniques could be combined. I’ve included that segment in the video on the home page of this site.
  • French wire — Because thread today is so durable, the protective properties of French wire aren’t quite as important as they were years ago. So its use is often a design choice or — and this is important – one that a client will insist on. It’s a piece of cake. I demonstrate it and also include a demonstration of how French wire can be used to support a design.
  • Fringes — Necklaces fringes can be important design elements. Creating them often involves using two needles. I walk through a number of different fringes with tips on how to best manufacture them.
  • Macrame — Pearl and bead stringers often reach into different niches for solutions in their own niches. For some time early in my career, I didn’t use macrame. However, there came a time when I had a design issue that the square knot could solve. I walk through the square knot and show how I use it to create good looking clasps.
  • Graduated necklaces — We see various formulas for creating graduated necklaces, adding a certain amount of length, for example, or using the beading board. I’ve used them both and have been disappointed and I know other pearl and bead stringers who have had similar experiences. That’s because these formulas, in my experience, can’t account for the size the beads or the width of the clasp. I show you how I create graduated necklaces and provide you with tips on creating torsades which have become a favorite necklace style for me.
Special Knots and Materials for Pearl & Bead Stringers

Special Knots & Materials for Pearl & Bead Stringers

When I began assembling this material for the DVD, I found I couldn’t include a relatively long section I’d done on special knots. These knots include the Lark’s Head, the Clinch Knot and the Grinner. I use them for attaching pendents (with and without jump rings) to a cord and for tying knots at the clasp. These techniques aren’t strictly “bead stringing,” but I’ve found them extremely useful over the years.

So I created another DVD which includes this chapter and a chapter on polyester upholstery cord, a material I’ve relied upon for many years for its ability to carry weight without stretching and for tensile strength. I think this is very valuable information for the professional pearl and bead stringer and I include this “Special Knots and Materials” DVD as a bonus with every order.

Stills from Special Knots & Materials

Stills from Special Knots & Materials for Professional Pearl and Bead Stringers

I hope these new DVDs, together with the earlier beginner DVDs, will serve the community of professional pearl and bead stringers by helping to providing the knowledge and skills for a lifetime. I’d love to hear any comments or criticism. Please e-mail me at fleury@fsommers.com.

For pricing details for this new DVD and how you can obtain the entire set of DVDs for a special, reduced price, please click here.

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Pearls and Iron

Pearls and The Iron Lady

Denis and Maggie Thatcher with their children

With the release of “The Iron Lady,” the Financial Times recently published a wonderful story about how Maggie Thatcher agreed to totally remake her image…with only one exception.

In order to compete successfully as a politician, her handlers told her to get rid of her hats and fussy clothes. They told her soften her hairstyle. Maggie also had to learn to deepen her voice which her handlers said was “too high and had no authority.” They also told her to get rid of her pearls.

Maggie agreed to almost all the advice. Gone were the hats. The clothes were replaced by simpler, bolder outfits. A voice coach from the National Theatre was hired and she took to drinking tea with honey. And, her handbag which had become a sensitive symbol of the dressing downs she gave members of her Cabinet–and which the British press took to calling “handbagging”–disappeared.

But not the pearls. According to the Financial Times, Maggie told her friends “I don’t know why the bloody hell I shouldn’t wear these pearls. They were a present from Denis.” (Her husband, Denis, gave her the pearls in 1953 upon the birth of their twins.)

The Financial Times makes the point that the refusal demonstrates how Maggie kept a “firm grip” on her make-over. But, the choice of where she made her stand is interesting.

Pearls, of course, are major symbols in mythology and romance. The wonder and fascination of humankind with pearls is obvious in the origin myths associated with the gemstone. The ancients believed that pearls formed from hardened dew falling on the mollusk’s shell. The Chinese believed that the “mussel becomes pregnant by reason of thunder and the pearl grows by moonlight.” The Indians believed pearls were the result of celestial water drops.

The explicit connection between the divine and mankind as represented by the pearl was made by a number of otherwise very different civilizations. This, along with the pearl’s beauty and rarity, elevated the gemstone into what has been for centuries a coveted asset.

(Not everyone of course has treated their pearls as tenderly as Maggie. The heiress Barbara Hutton, for example, received a string of 53 pearls that had belonged to Marie Antoinette as a wedding present from her father. When a visiting friend asked to see the pearls, Hutton replied that she had fed them to her goose. Hutton explained she had heard that a pearl’s luster improves after being processed through the animal. This, however, is an exception to the treatment ordinarily accorded pearls.)

Maggie may or may not have been aware of the long, long history of pearls and their associations. But it’s clear that her pearls were important to her, important enough to defy the advice of handlers whose recommendations she otherwise accepted.

 

I’ve been able to find no information on Maggie’s necklace, but based solely on the history of pearls at that time, I’d suggest they are probably Mikimoto pearls.

Decades before 1953, the year Denis gave her the necklace, natural pearls had all but disappeared from the world market. Freshwater pearls, especially round freshwaters, weren’t even a factor.

The introduction of cultured pearls in the 1920s had caused a period of confusion and uncertainty as buyers and sellers wrestled with the question of whether the new, more abundant and less costly pearls were authentic. However, well before the 1950s that question had been resolved in favor of cultured pearls.

Despite the destruction of the Japanese cultured pearl industry in WWII, there are reports that the Japanese government allowed Mikimoto to amass a solid inventory of pearls. And, certainly Mikimoto, ever the showman, used the occupation to introduce American servicemen to pearls. I’ve heard stories, for example, about Mikimoto arranging to have high ranking officers “discover” pearls in oysters served during banquets he organized.

By the 1950s, pearl prices had declined, despite the fact that pearls were embraced by such celebrities as Grace Kelly. As one example, in 1917 Pierre Cartier used a two-strand pearl necklace to buy the six-story mansion housing the company on Fifth Avenue in New York. Its value in 1917 was $1 million, however, in 1957 the same necklace brought only $157,000 at auction. During the same period, Richard Burton bought LaPeregrina, the 500-year-old gem that had belonged to a succession of European royalty for $37,000, a pittance for a gemstone of its historic significance. The same gemstone set a record when sold in December, 2011 for $11.8 million.

By all accounts, Denis Thatcher was an astute, knowledgeable businessman. Although he spent the war in Europe, he was well traveled and by 1953 had already built the company he joined after the war into an international enterprise. Denis may have learned about cultured pearls during his travels although there is absolutely no evidence to suggest that either of the Thatchers were especially interested in gemstones.

But by the 1950s pearls had become a chic wardrobe accessory and were especially associated with a sort of quiet elegance. I believe this would have appealed to Denis who undoubtedly wanted to give his wife something significant to commemorate the birth of his children.

That she recognized the significance of the gesture is obvious in her refusal to part with them.

In any event, it’s a charming story and emblematic of the role pearls can play in the lives of women who own them.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Jewelry History, Pearls | Tagged , ,

Jewelry Industry Hits and Misses in 2011

From the Kimberley Process to new entries in the Guinness Book of World Records, the jewelry industry experienced its share of hits and misses in 2011. Here is my take on the year overall.

Posted in Business, Jewelry History | Tagged , , , , ,

Jewelry 2011: Hits and Misses

With the close of the year, it’s time to take a look at the major jewelry news and trends of 2011.

Here are my top picks offered with the caveat that these are purely subjective, reflective of my own interests and highly debatable.

Kate Middleton X-Mas EarringsMost watched accessories: First, there was the announcement with Kate wearing Diana’s ring; then there was the wedding, watched by millions, and now comes an obsessive interest in all things Middleton, including accessories. This Christmas, Kate sported a new pair of earrings from designer Kiki McDonough, a pair of 18K gold drop earrings made up of green amethysts surrounded by diamonds on a diamond hoop. The gift (presumably from Prince William) was reported and discussed in the trade and fashion blogs around the world.

Most Coveted Jewels: Liz Taylor loved and studied jewelry and in her lifetime collected and/or commissioned a number of historically important jewels and designer pieces. After her death, the auction firm Christie’s undertook the sale of Taylor’s collection taking in more than $116 million, more than double the record for a single collection (the Duchess of Windsor’s collection garnered $50 million). Perhaps the most famous jewel in Taylor’s collection was La Peregrina, the 55 carat 16th century pearl that had belonged to a succession of European royalty. That sold for sold for $11.8 million.  An ivory and gold necklace, estimated at $1,500 was sold for $314,500; a charm bracelet, estimated at $30,000 was sold for $326,500. Nothing but the pearly gates would make Liz happier.

Most Anxiously Watched: Although the price of gold has trended down from a high of $1889.70 in 2011 to close at $1612.70 at this writing, it’s still far too costly for casual use in jewelry.  Although far less expensive than gold, the price of silver has also increased and many experts predict it will exceed $50 per ounce in the next few years.

Diamond Ring makes Guinness Book of World RecordsNotable and Forgettable:  A diamond ring, produced by Ukraine-based Labortas Classic Jewelry, has made it into the Guinness Book of World Records for have the most diamonds set in one ring. The ring, called the “Tsarevna Swan” boasts 2,525 diamonds for a total carat weight of 10.48. It may be hideous, but it sets a record.

Most Ineffective: The Kimberley Process, which many in the trade hoped would herald a breakthrough by certifying diamonds to ensure they are not used to fuel conflicts, lifted the ban on sales of Zimbabwe diamonds from its rich Marange fields. The discovery of the vast alluvial deposits in 2009 prompted the Zimbabwe government to seize the fields and evict artisanal workers by violence, including murder and rape. The lifting of the ban, despite the lack of progress in correcting abuses, was hailed by China and India and criticized by the U.S., human rights groups and the trade. This failure of the Kimberley Process does not auger well for future efforts.

The Shortest Goodbye: After three generations at the helm of DeBeers, a period during which the perception of diamonds was forever changed, the Oppenheimer family sold the company to Anglo American.  The multi-billion deal was announced three weeks after Anglo American approached DeBeers about a possible sale.

Newest Distribution System: The Gitanjali Group will roll out 75 ATM machines in India dispensing up to 36 options in gold and diamond jewelry. The company says “the machine is a first of its kind anywhere in the world and will further revolutionize the processes by which precious metals and jewelry is bought.”  Apparently the company is looking to cash in on the penchant of consumers in India to buy jewelry to observe tradition on auspicious days. It will also provide jewelry to commemorate Valentine’s Day, anniversaries and birthdays.

Girls of Great Britain tiara

Girls of Great Britain tiara

Events We’re Looking Forward to: To help commemorate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, Buckingham Palace recently announced it will display an exhibition of diamonds in August and September, 2012. According to the Palace, the exhibition will chart the gemstone’s association with British monarchs over the last 200 years. Among the items on view will be the monarch’s “Williamson Brooch” which features a rare pink diamond, said to be the finest in existence, pieces belonging to Queen Victoria, state jewelry and items from the Queen’s personal jewelry collection.

The Rise of the Designer: The trade confronted the challenges faced by the jewelry industry last year in a variety of unique and creative ways. Overall, commercial jewelry shows more flair and creativity, incorporating unusual materials and gemstones in new and beautiful designs. Studio jewelers continued to produce stunning work using no or only sparing amounts of gold. And, my own experience shows that people who may have had little interest in creating their own jewelry are learning new skills and techniques, including pearl and bead stringing. This surge in interest reflects the desire to learn new skills, re-make and re-design old jewelry for personal use and to develop salable jewelry for extra income.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Fair Trade, Gemstones, Gold | Tagged , , , , , ,

Fringes in Jewelry Design

Professional Jeweller, a British trade publication, reports that “fringing,” the practice of adding chain and other materials to clothing in the style of the 1920s flapper dress has “filtered” through the fashion houses to be “embraced” by jewelry designers.

Although the term “fringing” is new to me, there is no doubt that over the last couple of years jewelry designers here and abroad are adding fringes to work. Although fringes have been a part of a designer’s arsenal for centuries what we are seeing in this newest iteration is an explosion of different sizes of chain (often) incorporated with other materials to create a kind of mixed media, asymmetrical jewelry.

Much of the commercially produced fringed jewelry is oriented toward younger women. The writer for Professional Jeweller called this audience “urban princesses” and suggested that the new trend is resulting in jewelry with an “edge” or what another writer called “jewelry with an attitude.”

Evaluating design is a subjective response to an object informed by study. That is, a viewer brings his or her prejudices to the evaluation of jewelry (or any other work). If the viewer has studied a body of work, again whether jewelry or another type of endeavor, the greater the likelihood that the viewer can understand and explain his or her subjective design preferences. This of course is a fancy way of saying all of us like certain things better than other things.

Fringes, whether chain or gemstone, aren’t “good” or “bad.” They’re a design element and what counts is how they’re used.

Fringes in Jewelry Design

Fringes in Jewlery Design

I looked at the websites of the jewelry designers mentioned in the Professional Jeweller article. And while all of them are using fringes, it seemed to me that the work of Zelia Horsley illustrates the best and worst use of fringes.

In the picture to the left, I organized a collage of what I consider to the best uses of fringes in Horsley’s work.

The designs are all asymmetrical, but the elements don’t compete with one another. This is especially true of the bottom right picture where the fringe that drapes down from the collar could easily compete with the more dominant element.

I’m not sure if the transition material in the upper right picture is metal or leather, but it helps pull the eye to the multiple strands and echoes the black material used in one of the longer strands to provide a unifying element.

The fringes in the first picture appear to flow from the darker element and are in a perfect balance.

In the lower left photo, the darker elements add a point of interest as do the overlapping chains.

Above all, the pieces are wearable and flattering.

Fringes in Jewelry Design - Zelia Horsley

Fringes in Jewelry Design

 

To the left are the pieces I consider less successful. The fringes appear to be grafted on to (as opposed to integrated with) the larger chains and because they are so dominant they compete with them. As a result there is no design coherence. (I do, however, like the addition of red stones to the fringe on the bottom left image.)

The major problem with the piece at the bottom right is proportion and wear-ability. The large element, which in itself is well proportioned, looks odd attached to the much smaller, but long chain.

And, I don’t find the asymmetrical band and chain compelling.

Finally, I don’t think these pieces, especially the one at the bottom right especially wearable or flattering.

“Good design” as I’ve mentioned is in the eye of the beholder. Whether we use fringes in our work or other design elements, our job is not to confuse — or at worst — offend that eye.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Jewelry Design | Tagged , , , ,

Jewelry Design Key Issue in New Competition

Jewelry Design Competition

Jewelry Design Competition

I recently stumbled across an interesting contest, sponsored by JCK, that illustrates the issues all jewelry designers, including pearl and bead stringers, must wrestle with every day.

Those issues are design and whether your tools are adequate for executing the design concept.

JCK selected five up and coming jewelry designers who were presented with “Passion Topaz,” a pastel colored line of stones by Swarovski, and challenged to come up with designs using those stones.

The contestants were given seven weeks to complete the challenge and early in the design development stage were provided with a consultation with a design expert from the New York Fashion Institute of Technology.

Every month, JCK releases a short video on the progress of the designers. So far, seven videos have been released, enough to give viewers a sense of each designer and his or her inspiration sources.

And, this is where it gets interesting. What are the design sources? Are they compatible with the stones? Are ideas original or derivative?

Here is a very brief run-down of each contestant and their designs.

  • The first contestant, Nina Basharova who studied in the Ukraine and Israel, developed two designs. One incorporated barbed wire and one used the stones themselves as the key design component. The barbed wire design appears to have been an extension of an earlier design concept and was challenged by the tough FIT critic. Basharova accepted the criticism and focused on the second design which evolved from a ring to a pendant.
  • A second designer, Michael Bruder, a former engineer, named his company “Corrupt Designs” to reflect his interest in marrying art deco and art nouveau. These styles, at least to my eye, are entirely incompatible and the design he offered reflected this. Moreover, it’s my experience that while gimmicks like this may be (somewhat) interesting in the short term, they’ve no staying power.
  • Walter Adler Chefitz describes his work as a marriage of “fine jewelry and tribal designs.” However, his entry appears to focus on the color as his major interest and his design incorporates the stones in an interesting and optically challenging progression reminiscent of some of the modern art coming out of South America.
  • Rosanne Pugliese got her start working at Calvin Klein and her work is modern, clean and minimal–and to my eye and perhaps wrongly–secondary to clothes. In this respect the design is a major challenge as it forces her to focus on the stones, not chain which appears to be a major interest of hers.
  • Alex Woo is a young designer who has made an impact with small icons, personal statements in jewelry. However, her design takes its inspiration from lanterns. And, this ability to take inspiration from objects seen in the world around her and translate them into what appears to be a coherent and personal design is what most interests me.

You can decide for yourself which, if any, of these designers are true artists. Also, it’s important to keep in mind that JCK is oriented toward the commercial jeweler and the eventual designs may reflect this priority. Finally, the contest evolves, it may be interesting to see how self-aware each of the designers are in the sense that they are able to describe their ideas and the inspiration for them.

The tapes are short, almost irritatingly so. However, they do provide a glimpse into the way jewelry designers grapple with inspiration sources and project execution.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Jewelry Design | Tagged , , ,

French Wire: Aesthetic or Functional Issue in Jewelry Manufacture

French Wire

French Wire

I recently had an interesting discussion with a woman on a pearl and bead stringing forum about the benefits of French wire.  She was responding to a quick post I had made suggesting I’m not a big fan of French wire.

Now, I want to say immediately that this woman is clearly an expert in her area which is pearls and pearl and bead stringing and her comments on French wire were right on point.

French wire, of course, is the tiny piece of coil that covers the thread at the point where it slips around the clasp.

She asserted, quite rightly, that French wire provides important protective properties. It helps prevent the silk from rubbing against the clasp thereby preventing possible fraying. She also asserted, again quite rightly, that French wire can prevent dirt accumulating on the thread at the clasp where it is handled the most.

As you may have guessed, I’m not a huge fan of French wire. In clumsy hands, the coil it makes at the clasp draws attention to itself, usually by being too large. Moreover, it’s sometimes difficult to match the color of the wire to the color of the clasp, if, in one example, you use gold in two different karats. The coil itself can pull apart. Finally, and this is a purely subjective opinion, I think French wire looks and is a little old-fashioned.  In fact, it’s my experience that while older clients sometimes insist on French wire, younger clients don’t.

I do, however, see its benefits when used with silk.

Silk is a lovely thread and is available in many different lovely colors.  It also possesses one important protective property. Should dirt or grime accumulate at the drill hole, that gunk tends to attach to the silk and is not pushed into the drill hole where it could damage the gemstones. This is especially important with pearls.

So, given that protective property, the use of silk and French wire should be a no-brainer. Right?

Well, not so fast. The problem with silk is that it stretches. Knots pull away from drill holes and result in an unsightly amount of thread showing on the necklace.  The stretching problem with silk is in fact so acute that as a general recommendation, the Gemological Institute of America says pearl necklaces strung on silk should be restrung every six months.

Silk, as my discussion partner also mentioned, frays. And over time, white silk discolors into an unappealing yellow.

So the real question is why use silk at all?

There are two issues here.

Silk’s protective properties make it an important option for use with expensive pearls where the owner is interested in providing every level of protection for them. Given the choice, owners of expensive pearls will always opt for silk even with the understanding of the time and cost involved in frequent restringing.

But buyers of less expensive pearls will resist the idea of frequent restringing. And, frankly, most people resist the notion of significant amounts of grime around their necks.

The second issue is the trade-off between design and manufacture, perhaps the central manufacturing issue confronted by pearl and bead stringers.  Sometimes the silk is so important to the design of the necklace that you’ll decide to use it and then caution your client about the need for frequent restringing. However, if the thread is not a design element then consider another material.

So, to circle back around to French wire. If you use stronger materials, you don’t need it. If you use silk and plan for frequent restringing, the material  won’t have time to fray or discolor thereby rendering the use of French wire purely optional and making it an aesthetic rather than functional choice and many people believe French wire adds a professional and finished look to a piece of jewelry.

I’ve played around with many materials in my career.  I discuss the most important on a free video here on the website. You’ll have to use the opt-in form on the home page, but I do hope you’ll feel the information is worth it.

Posted in Manufacturing Tips | Tagged , ,

Long Pearl Necklaces have Royal Ancestors

Evalyn Walsh McLean

Evalyn Walsh McClean about 1915 with Hope Diamond and pearl sautoir.

The Edwardian period, named for King Edward VII of Great Britain, refers to the period between 1880 and 1915. During this time, Edward and his wife, the Danish Princess Alexandra, dominated English society, setting standards of dress, jewelry and etiquette.

In jewelry, the Edwardian style is characterized by the use of platinum, diamonds and pearls, especially the long rope or sautoir (soh-twahr).

At the turn of the century, pearls, including freshwater pearls, were a relatively rare commodity. Although the process for culturing pearls had just been invented, they would not be commercially available for another two decades.

Every wealthy Edwardian woman had at least one strand of fine natural pearls. At her coronation in 1902, Queen Alexandra wore several strands. Two hung from around her neck, while others were pinned at either side of her bodice to cascade down the front.

The  American heiress Evalyn Walsh McLean, who owned the Hope Diamond and the Star of the East diamond, favored sautoirs, as did Mrs. George J. Gould, a well-known American style-setter.

These long strands of pearls often hung to or below the waist. Depending on their length, they could be looped loosely once or twice around the neck, pinned with a brooch in a swag effect to one side of the bodice, or tucked into the waistband of the skirt. Often they were allowed to hang free. Multi-strands of seed pearls were sometimes twisted into a rope sautoir, called a bayadère, that terminated with elaborate jeweled tassels.

Today, of course, pearls, freshwater and saltwater, are available in quantity and at affordable prices. But it’s Interesting that the long lariats and ropes we see in abundance have such a long (no pun intended) and royal ancestry.

 

 

 

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