Be on Alert for Gold Scams

From Jeweller MagazineA recent spate of stories from Australia and Hong Kong may portend a troubling development for American jewelers, including bead stringers.

The Gold Anti-Trust Action Committee, a not-for-profit U.S.-based watch-dog group, is reporting that “Hong Kong goldsmiths have been sold hundreds of ounces of fake gold this year in one of the most sophisticated scams to hit the Chinese territory’s gold market in decades.”

According to the GATA, Haywood Cheung, president of the Chinese Gold & Silver Exchange Society, Hong Kong’s century-old gold exchange, said he was aware of at least 200 ounces — worth $280,000 — of the fake gold that had been discovered by jewelers and pawn shops. But he estimated that 10 times that amount might have infiltrated the retail market.

One of Hong Kong’s biggest jewelers, the Luk Fook Group, was tricked into buying $11,500 worth of fake gold this summer before putting its stores on alert, reports GATA. “This was the biggest hit ever,” said Paul Law, executive director of the firm.

Similar stories are coming from Australia. Jeweller Magazine, the largest B2B magazine serving the jewelry trade in Australia, is reporting on an upsurge in sales of fake gold to jewelers.

According to Jeweller Magazine, the scam was discovered by Melbourne’s Rikki McAndrew when one of his customers tried, apparently unwittingly, to sell him fake gold. McAndrews operates a gold trading business and is also the Melbourne president of the National Council of Jewellery Valuers (NCJV).

What’s got industry observers rattled is the sophistication of the scams.

The GATA reports that in one case, “executives discovered a pure gold coating that masked a complex alloy with similar properties to gold. The fake gold included a significant amount of bullion — about 51 per cent of the total — alloyed with seven other metals: osmium, iridium, ruthenium, copper, nickel, iron, and rhodium.” As a result the fake gold passed initial tests only to be discovered as counterfeit later with tests involving high temperatures and chemicals.

In Australia, McAndrews says the fakes were blocks of tungsten and coated quite thickly in gold. Tungsten is a metal with a similar density to gold.

McAndrews warns that the pieces look so genuine that retail jewelers won’t know the difference without the expensive testing.

It’s important to note that in both Hong Kong and Australia, the fake gold is being sold to retailers and pawn shops. That is, the gold is being sold as scrap, a time honored process where retailers buy gold and either melt it down for use in jewelry or re-sell as is.

It’s also important to note that the fake gold is appearing as different karats. GATA is reporting fake gold stamped as 14 karat while McAndrews is reporting stamps of 9 karats as well as 14 karats.

With gold at $1,518 as of this writing, most of us smaller retailers and craftspeople have reduced our use of gold. But we haven’t stopped using it. Moreover, in this unhealthy economy it’s not unusual for clients and others to approach us with scrap.

The problem with the scams, say these organizations, is that the fake gold is so sophisticated that only expensive tests can determine its true properties.

As far as I can determine there have been no reports here in the US of similar scams with this level of sophistication. However, that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t be vigilant. Unless you have the equipment to test gold yourself–and remember that the Hong Kong counterfeit passed initial tests only to be discovered by later, more expensive ones–buy only from trusted sources.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Business, Gold | Tagged , , , , , ,

Opportunity for Bead Stringers at Craft Fairs

Science Jewelry from Renegade Craft FairAlert trend watchers at TechNewsDaily have decided that “science jewelry” is ready for the big time. I’m not entirely sure that’s true, nor did the writers provide a good definition of “science” jewelry, but they did showcase some interesting and good looking jewelry from the Renegade Craft Fair in New York this weekend.

For beaders, the Renegade Craft Fair provides opportunities to showcase their work. The fair is held annually in New York, Chicago, Austin, San Francisco, Los Angeles and London. If you live in or near those cities, it might be a good idea to apply as a vendor.

Take a look at the type of jewelry being shown. Notice what is being shown and what isn’t. The owners appear to prefer lower cost, slightly off-beat jewelry that is referential, that is, the jewelry refers to something in nature or history. Given this tilt, it’s probably a good idea to name your jewelry.

The second opportunity is to apply to consign your jewelry to their on-line store, RenegadeHandMade. A tab on the website explains the consignment process very thoroughly. For more information on consignment structure, see “How Bead Stringers can earn money and enhance their reputations.”

Showing work at craft fairs is hard work, but it can pay off in terms of exposure and sales.

 

 

 

 

Posted in Business | Tagged , , ,

Transforming Technique into Art

Donald FriedlichBead and pearl stringing refers to the techniques we use to assemble jewelry. But good design is what transforms technique into art and this is true whatever medium you work in.

In the years I ran a craft gallery which specialized in studio jewelry, I was fascinated at how clients intuitively recognized good design, naturally gravitating toward pieces that were beautifully designed even if they couldn’t precisely identify the appeal.

As pearl and bead stringers, our work goes beyond learning good technique. It means studying the work of other jewelers and artists — not to copy — but to learn good design. Why is a piece appealing? How are the elements arranged? How do line and space contribute to the piece? What statement do the colors make?

If you are anywhere near New Jersey this summer, try to drop into the Hunterdon Art Museum in Clinton to see “The Art of Adornment: Studio Jewelery.” The museum has assembled the work of 13 studio jewelers “who create jewelry that is part of an ongoing trend to marry precious with non-precious materials. Merging the timeless with the fleeting, the precious with the ordinary, their work combines gems and metals with materials found in nature, the environment and industry,” according to the press release.

If you can’t visit the exhibit, you can still look at the work by visiting ArtSlant.com which features pictures of the work and links to the artists’ websites. It’s a feast. Really.

 

 

 

Posted in Jewelry Design | Tagged , ,

New Louisana Official Gemstone

A bill reported out of committee in Louisiana will changed the state’s current gemstone, agate, to the “cabochon-cut” shell of the Crassostrea virginica, an oyster native to the Eastern Seaboard and the Gulf Coast.

The Committee on Senate and Governmental Affairs unanimously approved and sent to the Senate floor, House Bill 246 by Rep. Scott Simon, R-Abita Springs which will make it the state’s official gemstone. The idea is that the new designation will draw attention to the state’s seafood industry.

A Louisiana jeweler and gemologist Anne Dale discovered and promoted the notion of using the shell in jewelry.

The Crassostrea virginica is also called the Eastern Oyster, American Oyster, Atlantic Oyster, Common Oyster, and Virginia Oyster. It is especially abundant in and around Louisiana shores.

Whether the shell is really as beautiful as its promoters claim or whether this is a nifty PR stunt, I’ll leave to you. Personally, I think anything that can help or promote that beleaguered state’s seafood industry is a plus.

Here is a tape of Anne Dale discussing the oyster shell which includes pictures of it set in jewelry.

Anne Dale

Anne Dale is a gemologist and jewelry designer in Mandeville, Louisiana, who has discovered the new gemstone material, LaPearlite.

Posted in Gemstones | Tagged , , , ,

How Bead Stringers can Earn Money and Enhance Their Reputations

Artists, including bead and pearl stringers, are often hesitant about approaching galleries. They shouldn’t be. Showing at galleries is a wonderful way of earning money and enhancing their reputations. Here are ten tips on approaching and working with galleries.

 

How Bead Stringers can Earn Money and Enhance Their Reputations

By showing work at galleries, bead and pearl stringers can earn money and enhance their reputations. Here are ten tips for approaching and working with gallery owners. For more information and resources, please visit http://fsommers.com

Posted in Business | Tagged , , ,

Why Bead Stringers Should Oppose the Internet Sales Tax

Oppose Internet Sales TaxFreedom, flexibility and creativity are the reasons people like us create our own small businesses.  And in the name of government revenue, state and federal officials are threatening our little businesses’ ability to compete and survive.

They are pushing for an Internet Sales Tax which would affect anyone selling anything on-line.  Some are on our side and the side of open competition and free enterprise in which everyone is taxed fairly, based on the services received from government. In Texas, my home state, Governor Perry vetoed legislation which would require internet sellers to collect sales tax. However, the legislature has inserted new language in an omnibus spending bill undoing the veto. Connecticut, Oregon, and California are among the states currently considering the tax and Senator Dick Durbin has already introduced legislation requiring it.

If you are a jewelry designer and are selling or considering selling on-line, you should follow the issue and e-mail your state and federal representatives opposing it.

The basis for the push for the internet tax comes from brick and mortar businesses which say that internet selling is unfair because buyers don’t pay a sales tax. (Consumers are supposed to keep track of their on-line purchases and pay a “use” tax, the equivalent of a sales tax, however, few comply.)

The legal basis for opposing a sales tax comes from a 1992 Supreme Court decision, Quill v. North Dakota where the Supreme Court ruled that retailers are exempt from collecting sales taxes in states where they have no physical presence, such as a store, office or warehouse.  The theory is that these merchants don’t require state or city services which a sales tax would normally pay for. In the ruling, however, the Court did say that Congress could enact legislation requiring retailers to collect sales taxes.

As usual, these new state and federal initiatives have unintended consequences and, as usual, the unintended consequences negatively impact smaller, less affluent businesses. (Although Amazon, for example, aggressively opposes the internet sales tax, does anyone for a moment doubt that if forced by federal law Amazon won’t have the resources with which to comply. Of course it does. But do most internet merchants?)

Thus far, Amazon has made it clear that it won’t do business in states where internet sales taxes are collected and where these measures have passed in states like Illinois and Arkansas, it has fired all its affiliates, thousands of them, and killed plans to build distribution centers. Affiliates are sites that sell Amazon products and collect a small percentage of the sales as commissions.

And who do lawmakers suppose affiliates are? Older people seeking a means of supplementing income and young out-of-work men and women. Although there are a few “super” affiliates, there aren’t many. And, it should be noted that Amazon distribution centers employ thousands of people.

Proponents of the measure say that the new legislation targets large on-line businesses. Really? In Texas, state sales tax is collected on any product sold, regardless of the size of the seller. And the proposed tax did not make any safe harbor for small businesses. I believe that any federal law establishing the tax  will be extended to all on-line businesses and tremendously increase the burden on small and very small businesses including pearl and bead stringers who are selling from their own websites and in venues like etsy.

Imagine for a moment the kind of record keeping that would be required. Sellers will be required to know the state sales tax rules and regulations of 45 states and some 7,500 different local taxing jurisdictions. That’s a nightmare even for large companies. For small companies looking to grow on-line, it’s an insuperable barrier to entry.

Let’s go back to the question of competition for a moment. The complaint from retailers is that internet merchants enjoy an unfair price advantage. But brick and mortar stores also have competitive advantages. Consumers can touch and handle merchandise. They can test it in-store. And, brick and mortar stores usually provide a level of service that internet retailers can’t match.

The internet provides a venue for merchants to sell products without the capitalization required for brick and mortar stores. With an out-of-work and aging population, it’s incredible that lawmakers are making it harder, not easier, to generate on-line income.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Internet Sales Tax, Uncategorized | Tagged , ,

New Guide to Tahitian Pearls

Tahitian PearlsAs a jewelry designer and a pearl and bead stringer, at some point you will almost undoubtedly sell your work whether to friends and family or as part of a serious marketing effort.

This means that you must know something about the gemstones you handle, especially expensive ones. Owners of expensive jewelry will not entrust their property to people who don’t have the knowledge to value it.

Years ago, the only way to develop this knowledge was through the Gemological Institute of America and by studying trade publications. Now, with the internet, much of this information is on-line and much of it is presented in various formats, including video.

A wonderful new site for Black Tahitian pearls debuted just the other day. Tahitian Pearls claims to be “The Ultimate Tahitian Pearl Guide” and it makes good on its claim. The site offers information on the history, farming, colors and grading of Tahitian pearls. And, it offers a rich series of videos taking the viewer inside black pearl farming.

Here are some takeaways, although I urge you to visit the site yourself. (The link to the site is above.)

  • Despite the name, Tahitian pearls are not cultivated in Tahiti, but rather throughout the French Polynesian waters in various atolls and islands in the South Pacific.
  • 90% of all black South Seas pearls originate in the French Polynesia. Other areas of cultivation are the Cook Islands, Fiji, Mexico and Micronesia.
  • Spats (young oysters) take 18-24 months to mature to the point where they can be cultivated. Once cultivated, it takes another 16-24 months for pearl growth. The success rate is about 70%. Failure results from the oyster rejecting the bead and mantle tissue and from mortality.
  • The black-lipped shell is used for ornamental purposes and the farmers are developing markets for their use in bone replacement treatment and dental applications, although these markets are still quite young.
  • The oyster is re-used up to about three generations. Second and third generation pearls are larger, but don’t have the same quality as first generation pearls.
  • The pearls are tumbled and polished gently to restore luster. Otherwise no treatments are used.
  • Pearls farms are less regulated than Australian pearl farms (which produce white South Seas pearls). Farmers compete on price which results in a trade off between quality and quantity.

In the two-volume “Professional Pearl and Bead Stringing” course, I included a video on the development of freshwater pearls. These are so prevalent on the market today that undoubtedly you will use them in your designs and I included the video for the same reasons that I suggest you visit this site.

Learning how to manufacture jewelry is a reflection of a passion for jewelry. Learning about various gemstones can help you market yourself as a professional. But that’s not the real goal. Developing an understanding of the various gemstones you’ll handle is a pleasure in itself.

Enjoy the Tahitian-Pearls site. It’s worth a visit.

 

 

 

Posted in Pearls | Tagged , , , ,

Jewelry Design: Sharing versus Stealing

Recently, independent jewelry designer Stevie Koerner ignited a controversy when she accused Urban Outfitters of stealing her line of “United/World of Love” necklaces.

Koerner sells a line of necklaces on etsy in which a heart is stamped through metal sawed in the shape of a state. She noticed Urban Outfitters selling a near identical necklace and accused the retailer of ripping off her design.

The controversy spilled over from the internet to the mainstream media with the Washington Post, the Philadelphia Inquirer and others reporting on the controversy.

Urban Outfitters denied the allegations, saying it “unequivocally denies copying independent jewelry maker Stephanie Koerner.” The statement also said “the [necklace] idea is not unique to Koerner and she can in no way claim to be its originator.”

Here are side-by-side images. The left is an image of jewelry produced by Koerner and the right is an image of jewelry sold by Urban Outfitters.

Side by side jewelry imagesThe controversy brings up a question that jewelry designers are constantly aware of: that is, when do you cross the line between sharing ideas and stealing ideas.

One of my favorite jewelry designers is Sydney Lynch, a Nebraska-based artist who used to show with me in the gallery.

She once mentioned that all artists “share” ideas. And, it’s true that you can see the idea sharing in the waves of different techniques that are incorporated in jewelry, for example, metal fusion. But, however, much Sydney may “share” ideas, her jewelry is instantly recognizable, always fresh, always beautifully designed and always unmistakably Sydney’s.

Donut HolesOn the other hand of the spectrum, I once witnessed a heated discussion between two artists on the issue of donut holes. Donut holes usually refer to a type of stone with a large hole in the center, although donut holes can refer to metal that is similarly created.

In this heated discussion, one artist accused the other of stealing her idea of using donut holes in her brooches.

Frankly, it was a sorry display and probably the result of too much wine on a hot opening night in Houston as both are accomplished jewelry artists.

So when is “sharing” really stealing? Sometimes the answer is obvious and sometimes it’s not.

However, the designer always knows when he or she has crossed the line. Don’t do it. Study the designs of others. Use their ideas and give them your own spin, but don’t copy.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Jewelry Design | Tagged , , ,

Bead Stringers Seeing Blue

Posted in Fashion, Gemstones | Tagged , , ,

Remember to Wash Beads before Stringing

As bead stringers and jewelry designers, we incorporate many types of materials into our jewelry… found treasures such as buttons, antique beads, hair combs and others.

And, of course, we use beads that have been packaged and shipped from all over the world.

This is a commonsense tip, but sometimes commonsensical tips should be mentioned especially when we’re eager to use our new material in jewelry.

Be sure to wash the beads before stringing them. The dirt on beads can damage them, especially pearls. Dirt looks bad and can also discolor the tread.

Don’t use one of those ultrasonic jewelry cleaners for your beads unless you’re certain the beads are durable. Amethysts, for example, and other gem quartz can usually take the ultrasonic bath, but unless you’re sure, better to avoid them. Also don’t use an old toothbrush to clean beads unless it’s very soft.

Use very mild detergents such as Woolite or Ivory in warm, but not hot water. Let the beads sit in the bath for a few minutes and then rinse them in warm water. Let them dry completely on a soft towel. If a bead is very dirty, rub with a damp, soft towel and rinse again. This will usually take care of the problem.

If the beads are from a hank, that is, if they are temporarily strung, it’s not always necessary to unstring them. Follow the method I’ve suggested and then examine the beads after you’ve rinsed them. If they’re still dirty, then you’ll have to bathe them separately.

Posted in Manufacturing Tips